STEVE RAZZETTI MOUNTAIN PHOTOGRAPHY AND JOURNALISM

KARAKORAM: K2 / BALTORO / HUSHE

"Mountain seemed piled upon mountain, to sustain the most stupendous confusion of mist and glacier, glistening with the the dazzling and reciprocated brightness of snow and sunbeam".

Godfrey Thomas "Ramrod" Vigne, first European to set eyes on the Karakoram, arriving in Baltistan in 1835

Seen here from the confluence of the Baltoro and Godwin-Austen glaciers at Concordia, it is immediately obvious why K2 has the most fearsome reputation of all the 8000m peaks.Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
Evening light brings the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods alive.Nikon F5, 24mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
Telephoto of K2 from ConcordiaNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Known for years as "The Throne Room of the Mountain Gods", this view is from Concordia, looking up the Godwin-Austen glacier to K2. Broad Peak is on the right.Nikon F5, 24mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
Whether seen from the Baltoro (this picture) or from the south in the Hushe valley, Masherbrum is a stunning peak. First climbed by an American expedition in 1960, it has only subsequently had two other ascents. Looking at the summit pyramid, it's easy to see why....Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
First climbed in 1957 by Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemburger - in Westalpenstil - no high altitude porters or oxygen were used. Unbelievable!Canon A1, 135mm, Kodachrome 64
     
  
Although nowhere near the likes of K2 in stature, the rock towers that flank the Baltoro glacier are nothing short of awesome in their own right. Expeditions to Concordia and beyond have to laboriously thread their way up the decaying, debris strewn lower reaches of the glacier. Welcome to Planet Karakoram!Nikon F5, 17mm, Fuji Velvia 50
   
Ishmail was a porter on my first trip up the Baltoro with Doug Scott in 1987. Since then, we have been on so many incredible adventures together...Nikon F5, 35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
Also known as The Golden Throne. In an astonishing feat of mountaineering, Martin Conway, Charles Bruce, Mathius Zurbriggen and several of their goorkas, got to within 500m of the summit in August 1892!!Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Hamza - a Balti porter from Askole village.Nikon F5, 35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
A telephoto of the west-face, catching the evening sun from Goro on the Baltoro glacier. First climbed in 1958 by Italians Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri, this peak has had only three subsequent ascents.Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
Part of the Paiyu group of peaks, this stupendous rock spire towers over the western flanks of the Trango Glacier.Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
A night-time telephoto of this magnificent peak, from Liligo - the first camp on the Baltoro. Bright moonlight!Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
The most famous (infanous) if all the rock towers on the northern side of the Baltoro glacier. Great Trango was first climbed in 1977 by an American team which included Galen Rowell and John Roskelly.Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
After hiding for three days beneath a thick veil of storm clouds, the Trangos finally emerge into the sunshine. For me, this picture perfectly epitomises the power of the Karakoram landscape. Awesome!Canon A1, 135mm, Kodachrome 64
     
  
The thing with the Karakoram is that there are so many amazing mountains! These are un-named and probably unclimbed peaks on the Vigne glacier, seen from near Concordia.Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
The main summit is just hidden in the clouds here, but the whole Chogolisa massif, seen from near Concordia, presents a stunning spectacle.Nikon F5, 105mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
A study in snow and ice architecture! Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
An old friend from the village of Hushe on the south side of Masherbrum, Mohd Ali stands fife feet eleven inches - a giant in Baltistan - and is known by his nicname "Alam Chana" after the tallest man in Pakistan.Nikon F5, 35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji RDP
   
Before the road was dynamited through to Askole, this remote village was reached only after a gruelling three day hike from Dassu. Jeeps now pass through this awesome defile in twenty minutes, whereas before it was a dangerous, strenuous and blisteringly hot ordeal on a narrow and treacherously unstable trail.Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji RDP
     
  
Before the coming of the road to Askole, the walk-in involved crossing the raging torrent of the Braldu River twice on these primitive "flying-foxes". This is Ishmail from the village of Gwardu near Skardu, with whom I have made many journeys in Baltistan. Hair-raising is putting it mildly.Nikon FM2, 24mm, Fuji RDP
   
A porter from Khaphlu village (south of Masherbrum) waits for his turn to cross the old jhola at the head of the Braldu Gorge.Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji RDP
   
A view to the Cathedral Spires and the snout of the Baltoro glacier.Bronica ETRSi, 150mm, Fuji RDP
     
  
A view to the Cathdral Spires and the snout of the Baltoro glacier.Bronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji RDP
   
The last rays of afternoon sunlight about to leave the floor of the Braldu valley.Nikon F5. 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
Telephoto of the summit of Masherbrum reflecting the glorious golden light of early evening, from Goro on the Baltoro glacier.Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Evening light on the north face, from Goro on the Baltoro glacier.Nikon F4, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
That big Karakoram sky!Nikon F5, 17mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
This diminutive but shapely peak stands sentinel over the corner where the Godwin-Austen glacier swings north towards K2.Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Early morning light illuminates the magnificent panorama of peaks lining the lower Baltoro. On the left (south) is Masherbrum, whilst on the right are Paiju Peak, the Cathedral Spires, the Trango Towers and the Lobsang Spires. Bronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji RDP
   
Telephoto of the west face from Goro. Gasherbrum II (8035m) is just visible over the right shoulder.Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
A view up-valley towards Concordia, dominated by the west face of Gasherbrum IVNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
The ferocious August sun melts the surface of the glacier at a phenomenal rate during the day. By night, these rivers are practicaly frozen to a standstill.Nikon F5, 17mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
Afternoon light brings out the complex relief of the vertical wall of rock-towers that flank the northern side of the Baltoro. In the distance, a snow covered Paiyu Peak (6610m) provides a background for the Uli Biaho, Trango, Lobsang and Cathedral spires.Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
Above the rapidly gathering dusk at Goro, the summit of Masherbrum (7821m) gleams in the dying rays of the sun.Nikon F5, 24mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
From the centre of the Baltoro glacier, sveral hours' walk from Concordia. K2 is just disappearing behind the flanks of Broad Peak.Nikon F5, 17mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
After sunset, the ice reclaims the Baltoro.This shot looking west from Goro.Nikon F5, 17mm, Fuji Velvia100
   
A close-up of one of the enormous ice-humps that stand in rows up the Batoro, products of the enormous forces at work below, and the fierce daytime sun above.Nikon F5, 17mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
The north face of Chogolisa is on the left, with peaks at the head of the Vigne glacier way beyond in the centre.Nikon F5, 17mm, Fuji Velvia 100
   
British mountainer Mark Miller at Masherbrum base campCanon A1, 28mm, Kodachrome 64
   
The south faces seen from Dalsan on the Gondokoro glacierCanon A1, 135mm, Kodachrome 64
     
  
Canon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
   
Canon A1, 28mm, Kodachrome 64
   
Craig Kentwell at the base-camp of the British "Shuffling Dossers" Karakoram Expedition in April 1986Canon A1, 28mm, Kodachrome 64
     
  
With a view down the Gondokoro glacier beyond. Layla Peak is at the far left of the image.Canon A1, 28mm, Kodachrome 64
   
K6 (6934m) at sunsetCanon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
   
A view south down the Gondokoro valley from a glacial moraine above the camp at DalsanCanon A1, 28mm, Kodachrome 64
     
  
Men carrying animal fodder to the village in spring. This is a crucial time, as after the long winter the villagers' livestock is hungry for nourishment and winter supplies of hay have run out.Canon A1, 28mm, Kodachrome 64
   
This elegant spire was first climbed illegally by the Shuffling Dossers in 1987. This view is from Gondokoro base camp.Canon A1, 135mm, Kodachrome 64
   
This peak was first climbed illegally by te Shuffling Dossers in 1987Seen here from Saitcho, at the snout of the Gondokoro glacierCanon A1, 135mm, Kodachrome 64
     
  
A family returns from a spring firewood collecting missionCanon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
   
Canon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
   
Canon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
     
  
Canon A1, 135mm, Kodachrome 64
   
Canon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
   
Canon A1, 135mm, Kodachrome 64
     
  
Children at Thalle villageCanon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
   
Men of Hushe villageCanon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
   
The rarely glimpsed west face of Masherbrum, from a high camp at the head of the Aling glacierCanon A1, 135mm, Kodachrome 64
     
  
   
A man from Hushe villageCanon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
   
Climbers on the summit of one of the few technically easy peaks in the Karakoram.Canon A1, 28mm, Kodachrome 64
     
  
Men at Hushe villageCanon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
   
An ice-encrusted rock under an overhang on the Aling glacier at Sampi BrangtsaCanon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
   
Men of Hushe villageCanon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
     
  
Khusomik is the highest village in the Thalle valleyCanon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
   
Girls carrying their siblings at Khusomik, the highest village in the Thalle valleyCanon A1, 50mm, Kodachrome 64
   
Children at Khusomik, the highest village in the Thalle valley
     
  
The first rays of sun catching the summit of Masherbrum (7821m), from the summit of Gondokoro Peak (5650m)Canon A1, 28mm, Kodachrome 64
   
A panorama south from the summit of Gondokoro Peak (5650m), with Layla Peak (6614m) on the left and Masherbrum (7821m) on the rightCanon A1, 28mm, Kodachrome 64
   
After the hard winter snows and frost, villagers coax the life back into their soil and plant their barley.Canon A1, 28mm, Kodachrome 64