STEVE RAZZETTI MOUNTAIN PHOTOGRAPHY AND JOURNALISM

Himalaya: Humla

"Humla. The word resonates like a hymn. Vast and humbling, Humla echoes in whispers. Humla is powerful, yet elusive, like the roar of the Karnali River carving and curling its way through the massifs that isolate and protect this lonely Himalayan region..."

From Caroll Dunham's introduction to The Hidden Himalayas

On a steep hillside high above the Humla Karnali river, a solitary tree flashes its autumnal prediction in the last of the afternoon sun.Canon A1, 135mm, Fuji Velvia
   
Against the stormy winter sky, a whitewashed farmouse in Jumla radiates the fading warmth of the sun.Canon EOS 500, 28mm, Fuji Velvia
   
In the far north-western corner of Nepal, on the border with Tibet in the district of Humla, lies the Byas Rikhi Himal. The principal summits in this little know range of mountains are Api (7132m), Nampa (6754m) and Saipal. This picture is of the east face of Saipal, seen from the upper reaches of the Chhungsa Khola valley in Humla.Canon EOS500, 80mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
Rising amidst the arid mountain deserts of Ngari in Tibet, the Karnali river slices through the Himalayan mountain chain and flows into Western Nepal, where its tributaries drain an enormous and remote swathe of inaccessible country.Canon EOS500, 28mm, Fuji Velvia
   
Bhotia means "of Tibetan origin", and the communities of upper Humla are almost all Tibetan Buddhists. This woman is taking a break from her work pounding millet, a staple in this region.Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
  
The young son of the woman in the previous picture.Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
Tucked away in a high valley to the west of the Humla Karnali, in the shadow of the Sangkha Lagna pass, lies the tiny village of Chala. Like so many communities in these borderlands between Nepal and Tibet, the people of Chala are today having to cope with a new and stark economic reality. Gone are the once lucrative trading routes. Gone are the mutually beneficial arrangements whereby their hardy chiang-lu sheep were grazed during the winter in Tibet. Life here is certainly hard.Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
   
Yalbang lies on what was the main trade route between Humla and Tibet. The Chinese authorities proscribed this trade when they occupied Tibet, and since then the entire Humla region has become impoverished and food deficient. The annual mela (trade fair) at Yalbang is now receding into the memories of the elders.Bronica ETRS, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
   
A Nyimba woman in traditional dressBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
ChildrenBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
   
The east face of Saipal (7031m), seen towering over the head of the Kuwari Khola.Canon EOS500, 28mm, Fuji Velvia
   
Deserted for the winter months, Puinya is the summer grazing settlement belonging to the people of Yangar. During the monsoon and early autumn, most of the villagers move up to this higher idyll and take their livestock even higher to the rich pastures above the tree line. In early November everyone moves back down into the valley for the winter, leaving the houses empty and unlocked.Bronica ETRS, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
Grating radishes to dry in the sun for winterBronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
   
As the days shorten and the chores of animal husbandry are over for the summer, the thoughts of Humlis turn to keeping warm during the long winter months. Firewood is cut high above the town and carried down - mostly on people's backs like this.Canon EOS500, 28mm, Fuji Velvia
   
While the deep valley floor is still in the grip of the overnight freeze, these caravan-drivers load up their mules and set off on their day's march towards Tibet. Humla has never been able to grow sufficient grain to feed its population, and traditionally relied on trans-Himalayan trade to make up the deficit. Rice and barley are taken to Tibet and exchanged for salt, which is then caried back to the lowlands. The difference in the exchange rates for the two commodities at either end of this long and arduous trade route enables the participants to add considerably to their family's stores of grain at home.Canon EOS500, 28mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
The trails in Humla are often so steep, and the hillsides traversed so precipitous, that even sure footed mules are unable to negotiate them. Thus, in Humla you may still witness the bizarre sight of caravans of laden sheep and goats winding their way through the hills. Each carries a small set of panniers, and their load is called a lukal.Canon EOS500, 28mm, Fuji Velvia
   
Spinning wool in the winter sunBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Provia
   
A December view of the upper reaches of this wild and spectacular valley. At the head of the valley, way beyond the last birch woods, lies the Nyalu La and the way to Limi and Tibet.Bronica ETRS, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
High above the upper Humla Karnali to the west, the Chala Lekh is the second of a series of broad ridges that form the watershed between the Humla and Kuwari valleys.Canon EOS500, 28mm, Fuji Velvia
   
A winter crossing of the Sangkha Lagna between Chala village and the grazing grounds at Rani Karka in the Kuwari Khola. Beyond is the east face of Saipal.Bronica ETRS, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
   
Saipal (7031m) from the upper Chhungsa Khola in Humla.Bronica ETRS, 150mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
   
  
This festival takes place over several days at the remote Raling Gompah, and the folk from villages in the valleys below make their way there in a huge procession. Here a group of Chhetris from lower Humla rest during the long final climb to the monastery.Bronica ETRS, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
Nyinba Buddhist nuns at the Jeth Purni festival, Raling Gompah, HumlaBronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
   
A Khasa Chhetri girl carrying her family's picnic hamper up to Raling for the festival.Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
   
Women from Limithang village don their finest traditional dress for the afternoon puja (ceremony) at the Jeth Purna festival.Canon EOS500, 80mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
Sporting their finest jewelry, two Nyinba girls on the hike up to Raling Gompah for the Jeth Purna festival.Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
   
A Chhetri woman from lower Humla at the Jeth Purni festival.Bronica ETRS, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
   
Nyimba woman at the annual Jeth Purni festivalBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
Children eating dalbat at the overnight camp during the Jeth Purni festivalBronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
   
Chhetri man at the Jeth Purni festivalBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
   
Central to Khasa culture are the dhamis, or village shamen. With their distinctive white turbans they are quite a sight at the head of the procession, and many are enthusiastic participants in the festivities.Bronica ETRS, 50mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
Two dhamis - village Shamen - looking a bit the worse for the two day chang-drinking binge that they are nearing the end ofBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
   
A Humla village shaman at Ralling Gompah during the Jeth Purni festivalBronica ETRSi, 150mm, Fuji Velvia
   
     
  
At Ralling Gompah during the Jeth Purni festivalBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
   
Nyimba women in traditional dress during the Jeth Purni spring festivalBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
   
Two sisters at the top of a log-stairway onto their roof.Nikon FM2, 50mm, Fuji Provia 100
     
  
Nyimba childrenBronica ETRSi, 75mm, Fuji Velvia
   
A girl from Limitang village at Raling Gompah.Nikon FM2, 50mm, Fuji Provia 100
   
Door detail.Nikon FM2, 50mm, Fuji Provia 100
     
  
   
A view east towards Mugu at dusk from the northern shores of RaraBronica ETRSi, 50mm, Fuji RDP