STEVE RAZZETTI MOUNTAIN PHOTOGRAPHY AND JOURNALISM

BBC - MYTHS AND HEROES: SHANGRI LA

During 2003 and 2004 I was fortunate enough to be asked to travel with Michael Wood during the filming of his BBC / PBS series "In Search of Myths and Heroes". The series was made by MayaVision International, and my photographs illustrate the accompanying BBC Publications book.

The first chapter tells the story of Shangri La, the mystical land depicted in James Hilton's book Lost Horizon. Hilton did not invent this concept - it has long been a theme in Tibetan mythology, where it is known as Shambala.

Our journey took us from the sweltering heat of India, across the Himalaya to the freezing plateaux of Western Tibet. In Humla and Limi - remote valleys in north-west Nepal, our arrangements were made by The Nepal Trust, whose medical and aid projects in the area are an inspiration.

A dried-fruit and nut vendor in an alley near the Red FortNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A dry fruit and nut shop in an alley near the Red FortNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A newly married coupleNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Delivery trucks cannot get into the labyrinthine world of Indian bazaars - goods are off-loaded outside and barrowed in to stallholders by men like theseNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
In his shop outside the Jami Masjid, an Islamic calligrapher displays his workNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Fast food, Delhi styleNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
A roadside cafeNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Shankaracharya devotees at the Bhuma Niketan ashram prepare to serve breakfast to hundreds of saffron-robed saints during a melaNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Shankaracharya devotees at the Bhuma Niketan ashramNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Shankaracharya devotees queueing for breakfast outside the Bhuma Niketan ashramNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  
A Shankaracharya saint, fed and victualled, steps out of an ashram into the sun during a melaNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Saddhu - a Hindu holy manNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Saddhu - a Hindu holy-manNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Saddhus - Hindu holy menNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Hindu kitsch - Ashram cityNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
The holy Ganges river at duskNikon F5, 15-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
As dusk gathers on the first day of the "Half Khumba Mela", Hindus come down to the Ganges to perform their pujas (ceremonies)Nikon f5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
On the banks of the holy river Ganges, Haridwar during a mela is paradise on earth for the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims gathering thereNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
As dawn breaks on the morning of the mela, devotees offer their pujas and salute the rising sun with fireNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Pilgrims soak up the festive atmosphere on the banks of the Ganges during a mela festivalNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A Hindu reading his holy book on the banks of the GangesNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Temple detailNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Temple detailNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Shankaracharya devotees listen to a priest before taking their ritual bath in the GangesNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
The waterfront during a melaNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Pilgrims bathing in the GangesNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Pilgrims bathing in the GangesNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Garlands for saints and deitiesNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Sweet shopNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Sweet shopNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
  
TobacconistNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Statues of Shiva and Pavatti in the courtyard os the Bhuma Niketa ashramNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
The Himalaya rising into the evening haze, from the road to JoshimathNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Evening sun in the valley of the GangesNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
This was almost as far as we got in our attempt to follow Andrade's footsteps across the Himalaya from India to Tibet. Up valley from here lies the village af Mana and the Mana Pass, ocross which Andrade travelled. Today this route is off-limits...Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
A night-time shot of this quintessential Nepalese iconNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Provia 400
  
Buddhists lighting butter lamps during LhosarNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Provia 400
  
A boy lighting butter lamps during the festival of LhosarNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Provia 400
     
  
Monks lighting butter lamps during the festival of LhosarNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Provia 400
  
Filming above Simikot in the Humla Karnali valleyNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Simikot is the administrative hub of this remote and economically impoverished region. Having struggled for half a century to come to terms with the cessation of lucrative cross-border trade with Tibet when the Chinese invaded that country, the people now have to deal with the growing Maoist insurgency in the region.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Though the potency of the hashish grown in Humla is legendary, most of the people there content themselves with smoking a mixture of tobacco and molasses in their chillum-like pipes.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Wearing distinctive white turbans, the dhamis of Humla play a central role in the spiritual lives of both Hindus and Buddhists. The Saun Purni festival at Ralling Gompah each spring is their main event.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Ready to board the helicopter for our flight from Simikot to LimiNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Boarding a helicopter at Simikot for the flight into LimiNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
     
  
The monasteries or gompahs of Limi were founded in the eighth century under the auspices of Toling, the mother monastery of the ancient Tibetan kingdom of Guge. It is strangely prescient that we should find such a sanctuary, where the wisdom and artifacts of Guge are presrved to this day, whilst making a film about Shangri La.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
The Limi valley is the most remote of all the Tibetan enclaves in Nepal, and retains a degree of isolation and independence that is uniqueNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A man watching a competition of horsemanship Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
A man watching a competition of horsemanshipNikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Nikon F5, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
North-west NepalNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
Jhang is the highest villlage in the Limi valley, an almost impossibly remote enclave of Tibetan culture on the border with Tibet in north-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
With a real sense of pageantry, these riders perform equestrian feats like scooping white kataks (silk scarfs) up from the ground whilst riding at full gallop.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
North-west NepalNikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Hearing that we were approaching, the elders of Halji sent out a welcoming party to meet us and escort us into their village.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Our escort on the final climb into the village in the Limi valleyNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Founded a little over 1000 years ago under the auspices of Tholing in Tibet, this is the most prestigious of all the gompahs (monasteries) in Limi.North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A lama blows his ceremonial horn.North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  
A Khojar man from Halji wearing his ceremonial clothes. These lavishly embroidered silks were brought from Tibet at the time of the monastery's foundation and are approximately one thousand years old!Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
An old man from Halji village in Limi, north-west Nepal, in his ceremonial clothes. These lavishly embroidered silk were brought from Tibet when the village's monastery was founded, and are approximately one thousand years old.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A village elder sporting his ceremonial clothes. These sensational embroidered silks were brought from Tibet at the time of the foundation of the village's gompah (monastery), and are approximately 1000 years old.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
An elder of the village sporting his ceremonial clothes. These lavishly embroidered silks were brought from Tibet at the time of the foundation of the village gompah under the auspices of Tholing. They are approximately 1000 years old.North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
A villager in his ceremonial clothes at the monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A puja (religious ceremony) in the main courtyard.North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-25mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Monks supplying the musical accompaniment to the sacred masked dances during a festival.North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Khojar woman in her ceremonial wedding clothes. The jewelry represents much of her family's wealth, and is worn here at a festival in the monastery.North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  
A Khojar woman in her wedding finery during a festival at the monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Khojar women in their wedding finery during a festival at the monastery.North-west NepalNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Khojar women dance in all their wedding finery during a festival at the monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
An incarnate lama at the monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Two young incarnate lamas watching the masked dances during a festival at the monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
A villager chatting with friends during a break in festival proceedings at the monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A young novice monk.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A young novice monk.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
The village elders performing a ritual dance in the main courtyard of the monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17 - 35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A boy taking a sip of Tibetan butter tea during a break in festivities.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A Khojar man of the village.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Samyjor Lama, the Abbot of Jhang Gompah, displays a priceless relic saved from the destruction of the Cultural Revolution by villagers at Tholing in neighbouring Tibet. This and several other similarly precious sacred items were then spirited across the border into Limi, where they have been safely kept ever since. This partially broken figure is at least a thousand years old and gives us an inkling of the fabulous cultural wealth that once was part of the Kingdom of Guge.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A monk drumming during festivities in this ancient monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Monks provide the sound-track to masked dances during a festival at Jhang monastery in Limi, north-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
A boy wearing his ceremonial finery during ceremonies at a festival in this ancient monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A villager watching the masked dances during a festival at this ancient monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Men from Jhang village during a festival at this ancient monastery.North-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
A villager participating in the ceremonies during a festival at this ancient monastery,North-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  
The young men of Jhang following proceedings during a festival at the ancient monastery in their village. Thus are the traditions transmitted to each new generation.North-west Nepal.Nikon F5, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
The men of Til village sit drinking chang (a mildly alchoholic beverage made from fermented barley or rice) during a puja at their village monastery. By the end of the ceremonies, which often last all day and into the night, many are so inebriated they can barely stand. This is quite acceptable - indeed their women relentlessly fill their cups...North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
The monk charged with blowing the ceremonial horns during a festival at this remote monastery sneaks a cigarette during a quiet moment.North-west Nepal.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Michael Wood on the trail from Limi into Tibet
  
Sean Smith, Stu Bruce & Michael Wood
     
  
An elaborately carved mani-stone at Darboche, site of the huge flag-pole at the first chakstal gang (prostration station) in the Lha Chhu valley on the Kailas kora. Ngari, Western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
The huge ceremonial flag-pole at Darboche, with Mount Kailas just visible on the horizon. Kailas, known as Kang Rimpoche to the Tibetans, is believed to be the physical embodiment of the mythical Mount Meru, cosmic pillar of the universe. Here lives Demchhog, the Buddhist Shiva. Hindus similarly revere this mountain as tthe sacred throne of Lord Shiva. There is no other pilgrimage site of similar significance in either religion.Ngari, Western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
On the shores of Lake Manasarovar.Ngari, Western Tibat.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
The Buddhist mantra om mani padme hum carved into the stonework at this tiney monastery on the shores of Lake Manasarovar.Ngari, Western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  
Kang Rimpoche - seen across the waters of Rakas Tal from the northern slopes of the Gurla La.Ngari, Western TibetNikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  
A small monastery on the shores of Manasarovar Lake, built over a cave where legend holds that the Buddhist saint Guru Rimpoche (Padmasambhava in Sanskrit - "The Lotus Born") once meditated. Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
With Lake Manasarovar in the background.Ngari, Western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  
A view south across the fantastic eroded edge of the Tibetan plateau and the Sutlej valley, to the Indian Himalaya. This shot was taken on our journey from Kailas to Tsaparang in Western Tibet, and from this point it is possible to see over 500 miles of the Himalayan range - from Dhaulagiri in Nepal to Ladakh in India.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  
A stunning telephoto of India's Garhwal Himalaya from the Tibetan Plateau between Kailas and Tholing. Kamet - first climbed by Eric Shipton, Sirdar Lewa, R.L. Holdsworth and Frank Smyth on June 21st 1931, is on the left.Nikon FM2, 180mm, Fuji Velia 100
     
  
Nanda Devi (7816m) is the highest peak in the Indian Himalaya, and lies within an almost inpenetrable cirque which is only breached by the infamous Rishi Gorge. It is almost impossible to see the mountan from India, but here it is, revealed in all its splendour from the Tibetan plateau between Kailas and Tholing.Nikon FM2, 180mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Although this part of Tibet is almost impossibly remote today, it was not always so. The Sutlej pierces the great wall of the Himalaya and flows south into the Indian province of Kumaon. There is a military road along this valley, and were it not for modern political considerations, the metropolis of New Delhi would be a mere three days drive from here.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
The thousand-year old entrance to the fabulous Mandala Chapel of Yeshe-O. This incredible building is closed to visitors, and the Chinese are still very jumpy about allowing foreigners to see the extent and viciousness of the damage done to this building during the Cultural Revolution, hence the sign. We were lucky enough to gain entry, however...Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
     
  
Here in Tibet this valley is known as the Langchen Khambab, and the river rises amongst the most unearthly maze of stark, eroded hills and ravines.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Known in Tibet as the Langchen Khambab, the Sutlej rises amidst these stark and eroded canyons before escaping south through the Himalaya into the Indian province of Kumaon.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Guge, the ancient Tibetan kingdom of which Tsaparang was the capital, was located here  amidst some of the most bizarre and fantastic country on earth.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
On a bitter winter's morning the first rays of sun illuminate the ruined citadel of Tsaparang. This was once the cave-city capital of the Tibetan kingdom of Guge.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
The eroded hills of the upper Sutlej or Langchen Khambab valley in what was once the Kingdom of Guge.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia
  
Ruined stupas, monastery and terraced fields near the citadel of Tsaparang at dawn in the upper Sutlej or Langchen Khambab valley in western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
The first rays of winter sun illuminate the incredible eroded rock formations of the upper Sutlej (Langchen Khambab) valley in Western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
The first rays of winter sun illuminate the eroded hillsides of the Sutlej or Langchen Khambab valley in what was once the Kingdom of Guge, western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A view over the Sutlej or Langchen Khambab valley from the palace enclosure atop this ancient fortified city. Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
An elaborately carved wooden beam - part of the royal apartment building at the top of this ancient fortified city.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
  
A defensive tower in the Sutlej valley near the ruined city of Tsaparang, Western Tibet.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100
     
  
Nikon FM2, 180mm, Vuji Velvia 100
  
A view over the ruined city from the royal palace. Below to the left, the square foundations are those of the assault tower constructed by the mercenary army of Ladakhis who finally sacked the city and put all its rulers to the sword in 1685.Nikon FM2, 17-35mm, Fuji Velvia 100